Exclusive: Hamaji the Nomad

Hamaji translates to nomad. Hamaji is a bohemian collection from Kenya. With their main focus and USP (unique selling point) being the preservation of ancient textile traditions and nomadic craftsmanship, Lousie Sommerlatte (founder of the brand) has created a unique brand, an eye-catcher. The two traditions the brand highlights are African and Asian. Last year, their SS18 collection, African Botanics, celebrated African textile traditions.  With 2019 running her final laps, as the year finishes, Lousie finds herself in India. Exploring Asian textiles, in an attempt to further push the brand’s mission statement. 

Her hope is to intertwine the two worlds, without taking from either one. She more than appreciates these traditions and nomadic ways, she too feels she can relate in her own way. She too is a nomad. 

I am aware that Hamaji translates to nomad. I’d like to know how that word personally impacts you and your brand? What inspired you to do this?

I have always been inspired by nomadic tribes, their way of life on the road, their craftsmanship and lifestyle, this inspired the name behind the brand. I also consider myself a bit of a 21st-century nomad, growing up in the Kenyan bush, and making my way around the world in search of textiles and a better understanding of nomadic craftsmanship worldwide. 

What’s the process? Having peaked at your website and social media I have taken note of the pride the brand takes in its production process. Talk to me about that?

I think it’s important to have a transparent supply chain and give those who produce the garments just as much credit as those who design them. We are all a part of the Hamaji team and I like to emphasize the people I work with in order to make my creations come to life. We are a ‘slow’ fashion label, in that nothing is mass-produced. The process starts from a design in my head that I then sketch out, construct the patterns for, make a sample and then develop the design in the necessary processes that are needed to see the designs come to life, whether embellishing them with beads or embroidery for example. 

**images of production process

Who is the Hamaji customer? 

A wide variety of free-spirited ladies across the globe, who have an appreciation for handcrafted individual items with a story. 

How does one hear about Hamaji?

Through social media I guess, mainly Instagram 

What markets do you mainly target and what markets are the most receptive to your brand? I ask this because on your site, the pricing is in euros? Is that where your market mainly resides?

I market to whoever is interested in Hamaji :) in Kenya, it’s a wide variety of local Kenyans, Indians, and European expats. One of my best markets is in Kenya, following with Europe, South Africa, and America - the reason I price in euros is for several reasons; it’s an international currency that everyone can relate to. My website doesn’t facilitate Kenya shillings actually, and I don’t have any connection to USD or the states so I thought of choosing euros. It’s also a stable strong currency. 

Do you have any local presence? 

I do, with my main base in Kenya. People know of the brand, I showcase at local markets throughout the country and various fashion shows.

Your prices might seem daunting to the average persons pocket. Would you classify yourselves as a luxury brand of some sorts? 

I wouldn’t say I am a luxury brand as those prices would be double that of mine. I am, however, of course, higher than your average brand from a retail store, but that is for several reasons; all my garments are handcrafted by our local artisans, we pay good wages and use unique fabrics. All of this adds up so the cost to make a garment is much higher. We also spend time collecting vintage textiles, up-cycling, using natural fibers, all of this costs money- each item is also a once-off, or limited edition, nothing is mass-produced. The only reason cheap fashion exists is that the production process is exploited, the individuals poorly paid, the fabrics used are synthetic and cheap and the mass of the design produced. If you compare my prices to any other brand doing similar products with a fair and sustainable supply chain you will see my prices are very ok.

I love your shoots and they way you’ve presented the brand online. How does that come together? Do you curate and direct these shoots for the collections or work with various artists? 

Thank you. I think if you are a majority online brand it’s very important to have a strong visual presence, which I take a lot of pride in and enjoy curating. It’s a whole part of the entire process. I design and curate everything for Hamaji myself when I design a new collection I am already envisioning how I am going to visually curate it with the photo shoot afterward. I then present a mood board to the photographer briefing them on my vision. I work with many photographers, mainly my best friend and boyfriend. 

Having launched in 2017, two collections have been released. The most recent one being ‘African Botanics’. Briefly talk to me about the collection? The Lake Magadi lookbook was absolute art. A personal favourite.

The African Botanics collection, as the name explains was inspired by the intricate flora found throughout Africa's arid lands. I developed this collection by collaborating with local embroidery artisans and together we spent many afternoons drinking chai and eating chapati discussing the sketches and color combinations. This first collection opened my eyes to what was possible to create within Kenya. Lake Magadi was chosen for its magnificent backdrop and pastel hues that I love so much and that complimented my collection. 

What’s the next collection? 

A work in progress... launching early next year, so keep posted. ;) It’ll be less busy than my usual Hamaji style though, veering into a more neutral palette. Expect hand-beaded shells on a backdrop of natural jacquard woven cotton, earthy corduroy, bold yet feminine silhouettes, dreamy dresses, vintage and block prints! 

What’s Hamaji’s role in the Kenyan fashion industry? 

Setting a scene! Kenya has many wonderful and inspiring designers, not too many though, and I think we are all paving away into the future of African Fashion and giving local people an opportunity to access designer wear made in Kenya.

What’s the future of the industry? 

I think as a designer, in any field it is our responsibility to design with the environment in mind and set these trends for people to follow. The fashion industry is one of the most polluting in the world so I think it is important to create awareness through your work and be actively sustainable in one’s resources and to support local markets and communities. 

Talk to me about India...

India was magic. I have always been inspired by Indian/ Oriental design. I love their knowledge and expertise when it comes to craftsmanship. They are the masters so it was very interesting for me to go there and learn a lot and also just see what is possible. I am sourcing my textiles from India now with production still happening in Kenya.