“Metamorphosized is actually ARKND™”

Afrominimalist, quickly corrects me, mid-introduction. Rightfully so, as prior to that statement I was under the impression that Metamorphosized was well...Metamorphosized!

Nairobi street fashion has, in less than 10 years, gone from being non-existent as, to a beautifully placed industry. A group of young, creative and driven Nairobians have disrupted the way Nairobians perceive street fashion. With a DIY approach, this group of creators have been able to make tangible their ideas. This is a scene in its very early stages, we at Tangaza wish to be the pioneer platform for these brands, whom, in my opinion, will soon be considered ‘the old guard’ of Kenyan street fashion.

Officially launched as Metamorphosized in January 2018, later rebranded in August of the same year, ARKND™ is a concept that evolved in Afrominimalist’s Einstein. A swahili translation for the word arachnid, the idea was inspired by the formation of butterflies, the manner in which they metamorphosize from caterpillar to butterfly. It is in this observation that ARKND™ feel their identity lies. As Afro put it, 

“to metamorphosis is to see someone grow into their own beauty...ARKND™ assists in that process, the brand will help you find yourself”

Afrominalmilst, has steered ‘SS. ARKND™, afar, causing all sorts of storms, resulting in great reception from the creative community, who have undoubtedly caught the wave. It is this angle that ARKND™ has taken thus far, with a collective number of collaborations with Kenyan creators, Afro and co have used these creators as their muse. For example, with an already established relationship with Kenyan singer/songwriter, Steph Kapela, a relationship that runs as deep as blood, Afro has utilized his circumstance and pounced on the opportunity. Majority, if not all, of Steph Kapela’s styling is scientifically calculated by Afro. Like a scientist in the lab, Afro experiments with his subject. In addition, ARKND™ have styled other tune titans such as Le Band, Vallerie Muthoni & Karun. Considering they launched in January 2018, the graft Afro has been able to display has only added to the testament of his ‘ridiculously rapid rabbit’ approach. We discuss the roots of ARKND™, it is here where I discover the importance of the DIY approach.

Having gained inspiration “from four primary brands; OFF WHITE, Raf Simmons, Maison Margiela and Rick Owens” Afro explains that it’s their illustrious imprints that ignite his inspiration. From the iconic print that Virgil Abloh has been able to champion into the industry, to the eccentric nature that embodies Raf Simmons, ARKND™ mirrors these qualities.

“I’ve been playing around with the concept of signatures, you know, like every designer has their signature trademark, I’m thinking of these two circle trademark...” Afro ideates aloud.

ARAKNIDA’s first collection was released in SS/FW18, in collaboration with Nairobi Apparel District. 

Afro, briefly describes the process, “I had the idea of the print, we did something that worked around the element where they hand print stuff, as well as deconstructed jackets. i.e. a jacket we had a zipper at the back, deconstructed then screen printed by NAD™”. 

Released as a limited collection, Non-Televised™, like a vine, came fast, saw immense demand, resulting in great success. All garments were sold! However unlike a vine, Non-TelevisedTM was merely their first revelation. A collaboration of garments designed, crafted and hand painted in Nairobi, is confirmation of that DIY sentiment.

In my view, this collaboration reached further than intended, aiming to redefine the perspectives of ‘mainstream media’, I agree with the idea that currently, mainstream media is a representation of the general public, particularly the youth. The perspective being, that local is...well local! In this case, the word local possess negative stigma. I express this view to Afro, who quickly co-signs my opinion. From echoed mindsets, to synchronized hesitation forms, we converse in chorus, all in awe at the accord. Our rant takes us off track, but the point is crystal. Non-Televised™ tries to redefine this: currently the market aims its wallets at the “fake boutique stores”, as Afro puts it, 

“they’d rather rock some fake ass OFF WHITE just to flex, than authentic homegrown streetwear” 

The roots of such mindsets would take us deep into the texts of scholars such as Walter Rodney, however that is not the point. Non-Televised™ is officially broadcasting, did you get the memo?

ARAKNIDA’s sophomore drop: “Peach Perfect SS18 Collection” reminds me a lot of an EP! 

Yeah an EP, it’s discrete, cherry picked nature felt deliberate yet laissez a faire, an IYKYK (if you know you know) aura. Like the collection (not the song), my review is, short & sweet!

Beyond these two major drops, ARKND™ has established itself as one of Kenya’s major streetwear brands, from reflective tees, to deconstructed pants, hand painted denim to print hoodies, ARKND™ is metamorphosing. 

On a personal level, Afro seems pleased with the progress. He remains adamant to the creator’s code, passionately proclaiming he “never looked at ARKND™ as a business per say more like a creative brand...” I pick his brain as I sense that comment has legs, “What's running through your mind? What do you mean by that?” I ask. He then eagerly explains his exposition... 

“...I want to create a studio, a concept studio, have all sorts of brand pop ups hosted at this studio, our own merch and in the future we could branch out to like all sorts of stuff revolving around design, like furniture!.. Currently I’m working with a reputable stylist as well as molding young kids, like I’m talking 17 year old’s, we actually got one kid we work with, like an apprentice” 

That concretely clamps my cognizance, it's in this moment I begin to wander off into the future, in it I see ARKND™. Currently the scene is premature, commerce is slow and the industry has only a handful of reputable brands. However many of these reasons are external, all out of the control of these creators, despite it, they have unearthed, they have bloomed, they have metamorphosed. It’s only a matter of time until the market does the same. ARKND™ has metamorphosed! 

ARKND™ has metamorphosed.